Alan Galinko
A.G.&G.Hobby &
Electronics

Balanced Mean Green

            I start an N.O.S factory gold/green or green/green armature, each arm is hand picked, electrically checked, Then the shaft is checked and polished, the com plate is inspected to make sure its on straight, then its polished and finally epoxy balanced to give the highest performance possible.  

Stock T/jet Epoxy Balanced “FRAY LEGAL" Armatures       “NEW”

            I start an N.O.S factory GRAY tip RED or GOLD or GREEN wire armature, each arm is hand picked, electrically checked, Then the shaft is checked and polished, the com plate is inspected to make sure its on straight, then its polished and finally epoxy balanced to give the highest performance possible. All of these armatures come with 1 pair of Thunder-brushes and A new armature pinion gear.

Zinger -  5.5 Drag or Road course

            This is a single wire wound armature with either the stock copper com plate or the  silver bullet commutator plate with timing settings  from 15' advanced to 15' retarded depending on your racing application and its epoxy balanced for maximum performance.

            This armature is designed to work as a direct factory high performance replacement motor with stock magnets and a wall pack, but when you add stronger magnets, and or a pair of braided p/u shoes, and a real power supply you will see this little motor come alive.

Outlaw  5.0

            This armature is a single wire wound armature  with a different wire configuration than above with either the stock copper or the  silver bullet commutator plate set from 0 to 15 degrees advanced for drag racing or retarded for road race and epoxy balanced for the highest performance possible. Ohm range from 4.0 to 5.0 ohms.

            It is recommended to be used in combination with braided p/u shoes and either Super II yellow and blue or aftermarket polymer magnets and my super silver brushes.

Black Beauty -  3.0 to 3.8 Double wind Hot Road Race

            This armature is a double wire wound armature similar to the Aurora’s famed "Super II Quadra Lam”, except that its wound on a standard 2 lam blank, this along with a copper or the silver bullet commutator plate with settings  from 5' degrees 15' degrees retard for superior torque and rpm. And is epoxy balanced.

            This motor works well in modified T/jets and A/FX magna-traction cars esp. when  using polymer magnets . With this set up You MUST use a power supply with at least 3 to 4 amps per lane. I recommend using my Silver com brushes in Tjet & Non Mag AFX

Gray Ghost  -  3.2 to 3.8 ohms  Drag & Road Race High rpm( great 4 gear )

            This is a HOT single wire wound armature with a silver commutator plate with timing settings from a neutral timing  setting to 15' and epoxy balanced, for use in all t/jets and A/FX chassis’s, This is a High RPM motor and runs very well in A/FX 4 gear dragster chassis  with polymers and braided p/u shoes. This motor is just like the La’ganke rewinds back in the 60's.  You MUST us a power supply with at least 2 to 3 amps per lane.

Red Hot’s -  1.7 to 2.0  ohm Hot Drag (Double Wind)

            The name speaks for itself, this is a Double wire wound motor with a 15' advanced silver commutator plate and epoxy balanced, This is  a High RPM Drag motor ( Like a 302 DZ), to get highest performance possible I recommend the use of polymer magnets,  braided p/u shoes, shunts wires, traction magnets, and a good bonded silicone tire (ex. Wizard LAW tires etc.) And a wheelie bar. Also get yourself a low ohm controller ( like 1 to 10 ohm)  You MUST have at least 4 amps per lane. Comes with the stock copper plate for longevity or Silver Bullet com plate for max performance (limited use)

must run my silver com brushes, & you can use Trinity Com Drops for Max Performance

Hellcat - 1.5 ohm Hot Drag ( triple wound )

             This is a Hot one!!    This motor is triple wire wound with 15' advanced com plate installed, also epoxy balanced.  This motor makes raw power and High rpm, this is one of the fastest 2 lam drag motor out there on the market.

              Performance recommendations and tuning tips are the same as the Red Hot, but you will need at a power supply with at least 5 amps per lane, For Maximum performance you  use a   low ohm controller ( 1 to 10 ohm). 

XL-Quad-4 - Custom 4 lam arm 1.5 to 5.5 ohm Road course and Drag

            These special armatures are  4 lam in design similar to the Super II but with a  significant increase in torque, It’s like putting a 454  Big Block in your t/jet. They add an estimated 20% increase in power over a stock 2 lam motor with the same wind.   This motor can be made with all of the wire configurations as above with any timing settings.  This motor has proven itself on the Drag strip as well on the road course. If your looking a replica Super II motor with a kick, then here it is.

XL-4C - Rewound Xlerator Conversion Arm for Road course and Drag

            These armatures are NOS Aurora Xlerator armatures that are stripped down, painted Green and rewound and epoxy balanced. You have your choice of either the stock com plate or Silver Bullet com. These armatures are drop in performance for your converted t/jet. They run best from 3.5 to 4.0 ohms

I supply just the armature. I do offer .003 brass shims just like original, call me. I recommend using my silver com brushes for max performance.

Outlaw XL-Quad-4 Pro Drag  4 Lam armature from 1.0  to 1.8 ohms

New “XL 5" “Pro Drag”  Armature W/Machined Gear Plate

          This is the most powerful Outlaw Drag Racing armature currently available for your original Tuffones chassis. This is for the experienced racer only. I Highly recommend the use of my AG’s Super Silver Com Brushes. This armature comes with a machined gear plate that will clear the wires on top but you may need to clearance the chassis floor so the motor does not rub or bind. You will have to supply the gears as well. The armature is made up of 5 separate laminations and a custom armature shaft.  The armature is a Torque monster!. It also draws a lot of current. You should have 15 amps of current per lane (Battery Power) and 20 to 25.3 volts (maximum) for top performance. Please remember these are limited use motors and com plates are the prone to wear out due the high current draw. Under load these armatures are capable of spinning  100,000 rpm as the car crosses the finish line.

Outlaw T/jet Pro Drag chassis complete ready to race

            First I start with a hand picked stock tuffones chassis, then the chassis is clearanced and vented, new polymer magnets and a steel drill blank rear axle is installed, and a lightweight plastic independent set of front wheels and tires are added. In the rear a new pair of Wizard Narrow  tires are placed in the rear.  You have your choice of Outlaw Quad 4 Pro drag arm (ohm rating and com plate), and a pair of braided p/u shoes and shut wires are installed as well. And finally a pair of traction magnets are installed under the chassis.

Note:   All of my motors are designed to drop in and tune, no chassis modifications are needed (with the exception of the XL Quad 4 Pro Drag & XL 5 Pro Drag). To realize the full potential of these motors take your time when setting the brush tension, use oil sparingly, and make sure you use the recommended power source for your racing application

Armature options :    “New”   Pro Series 2 lam armatures

            This is an add on option to any of my standard 2 lam armature rewinds.  I have found that most of the factory armatures are out of balance, when the factory assembled the armatures,  the shaft was not perfectly centered in the armature lam’s, so even without wire the armature blank is out of balance.  Now by epoxy balancing the arm this fixes the out of balance part,  but you still have an arm that will have different air gaps ( air gap is the space between the armature lam and the magnet).  Now all the air gaps should be the same from the tip of the lam to magnet.  So to insure that you get the highest performance possible I have found a way to correct the factory problem.

             First the armature shaft is soldered in place, Then mounted on a lathe and outer surfaces are machined down until its perfectly round and shaft is dead centered. The blank is then drilled as necessary of the flats of lams to get it perfectly balanced.

            So the end result is a perfectly round and balanced armature blank.

AG'S SUPER BRUSHES

            My latest product is the highest quality silver racing brushes available for all Pancake powered Thunderjets & A/FX cars. The brushes are designed to withstand the high current draw of the Outlaw Drag motors, and to provide increased performance without causing damage to the commutator plate.

ARMATURE & CLUSTER SHAFT GEAR PULLER     

            This is a “MUST” have tool if you have to replace or rebuild any T/jet or A/FX gear plate. This tool is the only one of the market that can fit between the rails on the gear plate and remove armature without damaging the armature gear or the armature shaft. The tool slides under the gear and lifts  the gear from the bottom. It is made of all steel and is hand finished.

Also comes with instruction sheet.

POLYMER RACING T/JET AND A/FX NON  MAGNA TRACTION  MAGNETS   

              These are the strongest magnets available for any T/jet, Tuffones and A/FX chassis’s on the market today.  These Magnets are cut to the same size as a stock magnet so they are a “DROP IN” fit.  All magnets are painted black and are marked “N” or “S” on the back side.  These magnets are almost twice as strong and Super II magnets and as strong ( maybe stronger slightly) then the old BSRT magnets where before your cut them down. As far as application goes you can run any Mean Green or tuffones ones arm up to my Outlaw Quad 4 Drag arms. 

You can use them for Hot Road or Drag Racing.  For maximum performance you should use my silver Commutator brushes and A real power supply .

*** NEW POLYMER  A/FX AND JL MAGNA TRACTION MAGNETS ***

            They have arrived!! The ones you have been waiting for, the strongest magnets available for your original A/FX Magna Traction chassis’s along with the latest JL Magna Traction Chassis. They are A “Drop In” fit. They may be a bit too strong for the stock chassis set up, You will need to do some other modifications to really get the maximum performance out of your car like a better set of com brushes, a balanced Mean Green or a rewound armature and you will need to get rid of that wall pack power supply. These magnets car be used for road racing or Drag Racing.

*** NEW AG&G Hobby And Electronic’s Slot Car Room Wall Poster ***

            I recently had my business trademark poster completely revised but the master artist “Bob C. Hardin”.  The colors are breathtaking. The image is professionally reproduced on a thick 11x14 glossy paper.